Showing posts with label watt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label watt. Show all posts

Friday, December 12, 2014

Stereo Audio Power Amplifier 20 Watt

20watt-power-amplifier

Here is a reliably high sound quality audio power amplifier project based on the National Semiconductor’s LM1875 IC.The circuit that we give is a similar form of the application circuit in the datasheet that NS provides. It is really easy to build and low cost.    
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Wednesday, November 12, 2014

25 Watt Audio Amplifier Circuit

This is a 25 Watt basic power amp that was designed to be (relatively) easy to build at a reasonable cost. It has better performance than the standard STK module amps that are used in practically every mass market stereo receiver manufactured today. When I originally built this thing, it was because I needed a 25 Watt PC amp and did not want to spend any money. So I designed around parts I had in the shop.

Circuit diagram:


25 Watt Audio Amplifier Circuit Diagram



Parts:R1 = 47K
R2 = 4K7
R3 = 1K5
R4 = 47K
R5 = 390R
R6 = 470R
R7 = 33K
R8 = 150K
R9 = 15K
R10 = 27R
R11 = 500R-1/2W
R12 = 10R
R13 = 10R
R14 = 220R
R15 = 220R
R16 = 10R
R17 = 8.2R-2W
R18 = 22R-4W(wirewound)
C1 = 470nF-63V
C2 = 330pF-63V
C3 = 470µF-63V
C4 = 100nF-63V
C5 = 470µF-63V
C6 = 100nF-63V
C7 = 100µF-25V
C8 = 100nF-63V
C9 = 10pF-63V
C10 = 1µF-63V
C11 = 100nF-63V
Q1 = BC560C
Q2 = BC560C
Q3 = BC560C
Q4 = BC560C
Q5 = BC560C
Q6 = BD140
Q7 = BD139
Q8 = IRF530
Q9 = IRF9530

Power supply section:


Power supply circuit diagram:



Parts:R1 = 3K3-1/2W
C1 = 10nF-1000V
C2 = 4700µF-50V
C3 = 4700µF-50V
C4 = 100nF-63V
C5 = 100nF-63V
D1 = 200V 8A Diode bridge
D2 = 5mm. Red LED
F2 = 3.15A Fuses with sockets
F2 = 3.15A Fuses with sockets
T1 = 220V Primary, 25 + 25V Secondary 120VA Mains transformer
PL1 = Male Mains plug
SW1 = SPST Mains switch

Notes:
  • Can be directly connected to CD players, tuners and tape recorders. Simply add a 10K Log potentiometer (dual gang for stereo) and a switch to cope with the various sources you need.
  • Q6 & Q7 must have a small U-shaped heatsink.
  • Q8 & Q9 must be mounted on heatsink.
  • Adjust R11 to set quiescent current at 100mA (best measured with an Avo-meter connected in series to Q8 Drain) with no input signal.
  • A correct grounding is very important to eliminate hum and ground loops. Connect to the same point the ground sides of R1, R4, R9, C3 to C8. Connect C11 to output ground. Then connect separately the input and output grounds to power supply ground.
  • An earlier prototype of this amplifier was recently inspected and tested again after 15 years of use. Results, comments and pictures are shown here.
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Sunday, November 2, 2014

100 watt Hiwatt amplifier model DR 103 power supply schematic circuit diagram

Description :
100 watt Hiwatt amplifier model DR 103 power supply schematic circuit diagram
100 watt Hiwatt amplifier model DR 103 power supply schematic circuit diagram
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Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Simple 150 Watt Power Amplifier Circuit

This is the very simple circuit diagram of 150W power amplifier. The circuit is easy enough to built without PCB. The power output range is about 100-150W depends to the power supply and the Darlington’s you use for the amplifier. Heatsink is a must since the final transistor is going to hot when the amplifier is activated.

Simple


The amplifier requires split power supply. The transformer is depending to your home electrical installation, it can be 110V or 220V primary. Use 35V-0-35V secondary (transformer output), you will get about 45V DC output from transformer 35V AC after rectified by the diodes. The Transformer current output should be at least 4A for better audio performance. Use 4A / 100V diodes.
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Wednesday, October 15, 2014

4 X 15 Watt Mini Power Amplifier

A lot of electronic circuits in the domain of audio amplifiers are already been published here. This circuit is a little different because it is a four channel amplifier. Each channel of this amplifier can deliver an output of 15Watts into a 4 ohm speaker. The amplifier can be operated from a single 12V DC supply and this makes it possible to use this amplifier in car audio applications too.

Circuit diagram :

4 X 15 Watt Mini Power Amplifier

The circuit is based on the 15W BTL X 2 channel audio power amplifier IC TA8215 from Toshiba. Even though chip is specifically designed for car audio applications it can be also used for home audio applications. Two TA8215 ICs are used here in order to obtain a 4 channel amplifier system. The circuit is designed almost exactly as per the application diagram in the ICs datasheet. Pins 7 and 19 are the Vcc pins of the ICs internal integrated power amplifier stages and these pins are connected to the positive supply. Pin 9 is the Vcc pin for ICs internal preamplifier and it is also connected to the positive supply. Pins 13 and 14 are the internal power amplifiers ground pins and they are tied together and connected to the ground. 

The internal preamplifier’s ground pin (pin5) is connected to the common ground through a 10 Ohm resistor which makes the input ground separated from the common ground by a resistance of 10 ohms and this improves the noise rejection. The 100uF capacitor works as a power supply de-coupler. The resistor networks connected to the output lines of each amplifier improves the high frequency stability. The variable resistors (R3, R4, R12 and R13) works as the volume controller for the corresponding channels.

Notes :
  • Assembling the circuit on a good quality PCB is a must for obtaining optimum sound quality.
  • Use 12V DC for powering the circuit.
  • The ICs must be fitted with adequately sized heat sinks.
  • R3, R4, R12 and R13 serves as volume controllers.
  • K1 to K4 can be 4 Ohm, 20W speakers.
  • This amplifier circuit can be used in a variety of applications such as car audio systems, home theater systems, personal audio systems, public address systems etc.
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Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Hot 2 Watt Audio Amplifier

This amplifier was designed to be self-contained in a small loudspeaker box. It can be feed by Walkman, Mini-Disc, iPod and CD players, computers and similar devices fitted with line or headphone output. Of course, in most cases you will have to make two boxes to obtain stereo.

Hot 2 Watt Audio Amplifier Circuit Diagram:



Parts:

P1 = 10K
R1 = 33K
R2 = 33K
R3 = 33R
R4 = 15K
R5 = 1K
R6 = 1K
R7 = 680R
R8 = 120R-1/2W
R9 = 100R-1/2W Trimmer Cermet
C1 = 10µF-63V
C2 = 10µF-63V
C3 = 100µF-25V
C4 = 470µF-25V
C5 = 47pF-63V
C7 = 470µF-25V
C6 = 220nF-63V
C8 = 1000µF-25V
D1 = 1N4148
Q1 = BC560C
Q2 = BC337
Q3 = TIP31A
Q4 = TIP32A
SW1 = SPST switch
SPKR = 3-5 Watt Loudspeaker

Circuit Operation:

The schema was deliberately designed using no ICs and in a rather old-fashioned manner in order to obtain good harmonic distortion behavior and to avoid hard to find components. The amplifier(s) can be conveniently supplied by a 12V wall plug-in adapter. Closing SW1 a bass-boost is provided but, at the same time, volume control must be increased to compensate for power loss at higher frequencies. In use, R9 should be carefully adjusted to provide minimal audible signal cross-over distortion consistent with minimal measured quiescent current consumption; a good compromise is to set the quiescent current at about 10-15 mA. To measure this current, wire a DC current meter temporarily in series with the collector of Q3.
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Friday, August 29, 2014

6 Watt stereo power amplifier schematic

Basiccally,this amplifier works with the IC, which is where ic is associated with several other components in the supply and use DC voltage, which corresponds to the needs of IC above course on the circuit schematic. For IC , stands intregated circuit used is ic LM379 which has a maximum 6 Watt stereo output. This IC manufactered by NS and with SDIP-14 package. While other components needed in the circuit schematic , you can see components of the list below.
stereo
Component List :

Resistor
R1___________________2K
R2___________________2K
R3___________________33K
R4___________________33K
R5___________________1M
R6___________________1M
R7___________________10R 2W
R8___________________10R 2W

Capacitor
C1___________________4.7uF
C2___________________4.7uF
C3___________________470uF
C4___________________470uF
C5___________________470uF
C6___________________100n
C7___________________100n

IC
IC1___________________LM379
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Sunday, August 24, 2014

Build a 300 Watt Subwoofer Power Amplifier Wiring diagram Schematic

The output devices are MJL4281A (NPN) and MJL4302A (PNP), and feature high bandwidth, excellent SOA (safe operating area), high linearity and high gain. Driver transistors are MJE15034 (NPN) and MJE15035 (PNP). All devices are rated at 350V, with the power transistors having a 230W dissipation and the drivers are 50W.

Having built a P68 using these transistors, I recommend them highly - the amplifier is most certainly at its very best with the high gain and linearity afforded by these devices. Note that there are a few minor changes to the schema (shown below).

High power amps are not too common as projects, since they are by their nature normally difficult to build, and are expensive. A small error during assembly means that you start again - this can get very costly. I recommend that you use the PCB for this amplifier, as it will save you much grief. This is not an amp for beginners working with Veroboard!

The amplifier can be assembled by a reasonably experienced hobbyist in about three hours. The metalwork will take somewhat longer, and this is especially true for the high continuous power variant. Even so, it is simple to build, compact, relatively inexpensive, and provides a level of performance that will satisfy most requirements.

300W Sub woofer Power Amplifier Circuit Diagram

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Fig 1
WARNINGS:
  • This amplifier is not trivial, despite its small size and apparent simplicity. The total DC is over 110V, and can kill you.
  • The power dissipated is such that great care is needed with transistor mounting.
  • The S300 is intended for intermittent duty on 4 Ohm loads, as will normally be found in a subwoofer. It is NOT intended for PA or any other continuous duty, and although it may work fine for may years, I absolutely do not recommend this.
  • For continuous duty, do not use less than 8 Ohms.
  • There is NO SHORT CIRCUIT PROTECTION. The amp is designed to be used within a subwoofer enclosure, so this has not been included. A short on the output will almost certainly destroy the amplifier.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS AMPLIFIER AS YOUR FIRST PROJECT

Please note that this amp is NOT designed for continuous high power into 4 Ohms. It is designed for intermittent duty, suitable for an equalized sub woofer system (for example using the ELF principle - see the Project Page for the info on this schema). Where continuous high power is required, another 4 output transistors are needed, wired in the same way as Q9, Q10, Q11 and Q12, and using 0.1 ohm emitter resistors.

Continuous power into 8 ohms is typically over 150W, and it can be used in the form shown at full power into an 8 ohm load all day, every day. The additional transistors are only needed if you want to do the same thing into 4 ohms!

The schema is shown in Figure 1, and it is a reasonably conventional design. Connections are provided for the Internal SIM (published elsewhere on the Project Pages), and filtering is provided for RF protection (R1, C2). The input is via a 4.7uF bipolar cap, as this provides lots of capacitance in a small size. Because of the impedance, little or no degradation of sound will be apparent. A polyester cap may be used if you prefer - 1uF with the nominal 22k input impedance will give a -3dB frequency of 7.2Hz, which is quite low enough for any sub.
The input stage is a conventional long-tailed pair, and uses a current sink (Q1) in the emitter schema. I elected to use a current sink here to ensure that the amp would stabilise quickly upon application (and removal) of power, to eliminate the dreaded turn on "thump". The amp is actually at reasonably stable operating conditions with as little as +/-5 volts! Note also that there are connections for the SIM (Sound Impairment Monitor), which will indicate clipping better than any conventional clipping indicator schema. See the Project Pages for details on making a SIM schema.
The Class-A driver is again conventional, and uses a Miller stabilisation cap. This component should be either a 500V ceramic or a polystyrene device for best linearity. The collector load uses the bootstrap principle rather than an active current sink, as this is cheaper and very reliable (besides, I like the bootstrap principle :-)

All three driver transistors must be on a heatsink, and D2 and D3 should be in good thermal contact with the driver heatsink. Neglect to do this and the result will be thermal runaway, and the amp will fail.

C11 does not exist on this schematic, so dont bother looking for it. It was "mislaid" when the schematic was prepared, and I didnt notice until someone asked me where and what it was supposed to be. Sorry about that.
It is in the output stage that the power capability of this amp is revealed. The main output is similar to many of my other designs, but with a higher value than normal for the "emitter" resistors (R16, R17). The voltage across these resistors is then used to provide base current for the main output devices, which operate in full Class-B. In some respects, this is a "poor-mans" version of the famous Quad "current dumping" schema, but without the refinements.

Although I have shown MJL4281A and MJL4302A output transistors, because they are new most constructors will find that these are not as easy to get as they should be. The alternatives are MJL21193/ MJL21194
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Fig 2

Note: It is no longer possible to recommend any Toshiba transistors, since they are the most commonly counterfeited of all. The 2SA1302 and 2SC3281 are now obsolete - if you do find them, they are almost certainly fakes, since Toshiba has not made these devices since around 1999~2000.

Use a standard green LED. Do not use high brightness or other colors, as they may have a slightly different forward voltage, and this will change the current sinks operation - this may be a miniature type if desired. The resistors are all 1/4W (preferably metal film), except for R10, R11 and R22, which are 1W carbon film types. All low value resistors (1 ohm and 0.1 ohm) are 5W wire wound types.

Because this amp operates in "pure" Class-B (something of a contradiction of terms, I think), the high frequency distortion will be relatively high, and is unsuited to high power hi-fi. At the low frequency end of the spectrum, there is lots of negative feedback, and distortion is actually rather good, at about 0.04% up to 1kHz.

Power output into 4 ohms is over 250W continuous, and for transients exceeds 300W easily. Use of a big power transformer and massive filter caps will allow the amp to deliver close to 350W continuous, but if you really want to use it like that, I very strongly recommend the additional output transistors (see above comments on this topic).

Power Dissipation Considerations
I have made a lot of noise about not using this amp for continuous duty into 4 ohms without the extra transistors. A quick calculation reveals that at the worst case, the output and transistor voltage will be the same - i.e. at 28V. With 28V, load (and transistor) current is 7A, so the instantaneous dissipation is therefore 28 * 7 = 196W. This means that the four final transistors do most of the work, with the others having a relatively restful time.

Since I like to be conservative, I will assume that they contribute no more than about 1.5A (which is about right). This means that they only dissipate 48W, with the main O/P devices dissipating a peak of 74W each. The specified transistors are 130W, and the alternatives are 150W, so where is the problem?

The problem is simple - the rated dissipation for a transistor is with a case temperature of 25°C. As the amp is used, each internal transistor die gets hot, as does the transistor case - the standard derating curves must be applied. Add to this the reactive component as the loudspeaker drives current back into the amp, and it becomes all too easy to exceed the device dissipation limits.

Figure 1A shows the doubled output stage, with Q9, Q10, Q11 and Q12 simply repeated - along with the emitter resistors. Each 1/2 stage has its own zobel network and bypass caps as shown, as this is the arrangement if the dual PCB version is built. When you have this many power transistors, the amp will happily drive a 4 ohm load all day - with a big enough heatsink, and / or forced cooling (highly recommended, by the way).

A Few Specs and Measurements

The following figures are all relative to an output power of 225W into 4 ohms, or 30V RMS at 1kHz, unless otherwise stated. Noise and distortion figures are unweighted, and are measured at full bandwidth. Measurements were taken using a 300VA transformer, with 6,800uF filter caps. Mains voltage was about 4% low when I did the tests, so power output will normally be slightly higher than shown here if the mains are at the correct nominal voltage.

Gain 27dB
Power (Continuous) 240W (4 ohms)

153W (8 ohms)
Peak Power - 5 ms 185W (8 ohms)
Peak Power - 10 ms 172W (8 ohms)
Input Voltage 1.3V RMS
Noise -63dBV (ref. 1V)
S/N Ratio 92dB
Distortion 0.4%
Distortion (@ 4W) 0.04% (1 Khz)
Distortion (@ 4W) 0.07% (10 kHz)
Slew Rate > 3V/us
Power Bandwidth 30 kHz
These figures are quite respectable, especially considering the design intent for this amp. While it would not be really suitable for normal hi-fi, even there it is doubtful that any deficiencies would be readily apparent, except perhaps at frequencies above 10kHz. While the amp is certainly fast enough (and yes, 3V/us actually is fast enough - full power is available up to 30kHz), the distortion will be a bit too high.

Note that the "peak power" ratings represent the maximum power before the filter caps discharge and the supply voltage collapses. I measured these at 5 milliseconds and 10 milliseconds. Performance into 4 ohm loads will not be quite as good, as the caps will discharge faster. The supply voltage with zero power measured exactly 56V, and collapsed to 50.7V at full power into 8 ohms, and 47.5V at full power into 4 ohms.

Photo
Photo of Completed Prototype

The photo does not show the silk screened component overlay, since this is the prototype board. The final boards have the overlay (as do all my other boards).

As can be seen, this is the single board version. The driver transistors are in a row, so that a single sheet aluminium heatsink can be used for all three. Holes are provided on the board so the driver heatsink can be mounted firmly, to prevent the transistor leads breaking due to vibration. This is especially important if the amp is used for a powered subwoofer, but will probably not be needed for a chassis mounted system.
The driver and main heatsinks shown are adequate for up to 200W into 4 ohms with normal program material. The power transistors are all mounted underneath the board, and the mounting screw heads can be seen on the top of the board.

Deceptively simple, isnt it?

Power Supply

WARNING: Mains wiring must be performed by a qualified electrician - Do not attempt the power supply unless suitably qualified. Faulty or incorrect mains wiring may result in death or serious injury.
The basic power supply is shown in Figure 2. It is completely conventional in all respects. Use a 40-0-40 V transformer, rated at 300VA for normal use. For maximum continuous power, a 500VA or bigger transformer will be needed. This will give a continuous power of about 350W, and peak power of close to 400W is possible with a good transformer. Remember my warnings about using the amp in this way, and the need for the additional output transistors.

Build
Figure 2 - Basic Power Supply Circuit
For 115V countries, the fuse should be 6A, and in all cases a slow blow fuse is required because of the inrush current of the transformer.

C1 must be rated for 240V AC (or 120V AC) operation - do not use standard 250V DC caps under any circumstance, as they will fail, and R1 will explode! This is not intended as humour - this is fact! C1 and R1 may be omitted in most cases, and if you cannot get a mains rated capacitor I suggest that you dont install these components.

The supply voltage can be expected to be higher than that quoted at no load, and less at full load. This is entirely normal, and is due to the regulation of the transformer. In some cases, it will not be possible to obtain the rated power if the transformer is not adequately rated.

Bridge rectifiers should be 35A types, and filter capacitors must be rated at a minimum of 63V. Wiring needs to be heavy gauge, and the DC must be taken from the capacitors - not from the bridge rectifier.

Although shown with 4,700uF filter capacitors, larger ones may be used. Anything beyond 10,000uF is too expensive, and will not improve performance to any worthwhile degree. Probably the best is to use two 4,700uF caps per side (four in all). This will actually work better than a single 10,000uF device, and will be cheaper as well.

NOTE: It is essential that fuses are used for the power supply. While they will not stop the amp from failing (no fuse ever does), they will prevent catastrophic damage that would result from not protecting the schema from over-current conditions. Fuses can be mounted in fuseholders or can be inline types. The latter are preferred, as the supply leads can be kept as short as possible. Access from outside the chassis is not needed - if the fuses blow, the amplifier is almost certainly damaged.
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