Showing posts with label your. Show all posts
Showing posts with label your. Show all posts

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Laptops Cord Stays off Your Lap with this Clip

Someone just got this trick works on all the uni body Mac Books and helps keep your wires and cord under control.

Hacks and Mods: Laptops Cord Stays off your Lap with this Clip

This clip is especially bendy if you are lounging on the sofa with the power-cord-side in towards the cushions. It keeps your MacBooks power cord under control with this trick and to stop it from tugging in you. Its built-in cable clip the one that keeps your cord wrapped around the power brick and clip it to the side of your laptops screen.
Hacks and Mods:   Laptops Cord Stays off your Lap with this Clip
The cable pulls it up off your lap and keeps it neat and tidy not to mention free of crazy fall across the keyboard loops.
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Thursday, September 11, 2014

Brightness controller circuit diagram for your car



This is brightness controller schema diagram.You can use this schema for your car or for your bike.Here I have used famous IC NE 555.





Note

# Use 6V bulbs with this

# Build this schema on a pcb.
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Sunday, August 31, 2014

The Risks of Self Installation of your Auto Sound System

The risks of installing your own auto sound system may be greater than you realize. The fact is that there are people that are professionally trained in the installation and proper handling of these delicate sound systems for a reason. If it werent a difficult task they wouldnt be able to demand the rather hefty price tag that most installation centers charge. The problem is that mistakes can actually cost more than the installation. If you arent one hundred percent certain that you can handle the installation process alone it is best to leave it up to the experts.

To prove my point, I will give you my very own personal story of how auto sound system installations can go horribly (well, perhaps hilariously would be the better choice of words in my particular situation) of course. You see I wanted a CD player in my mini van about 13 years ago. This was back in the dark ages when these types of sound systems were still relatively new and on the cutting edge when it came to technology.

These types of auto sound systems were definitely not the norm as they are in todays cars. I was commuting 3 hours (round trip) each day at the time and some of the time was spent among the corn fields where there were no towers broadcasting radio signals anywhere nearby. Im sure you can see why I felt I needed a CD player. At any rate, my wonderful dear old dad installed my brand new car (well mini van) stereo for me and all seemed to be going well until we realized that the horn no longer worked and that in order to actually use the stereo, the headlights must be on (this was also before daytime running lights were the norm as well).


Now that youve finished laughing Im sure you can understand why I am a huge advocate for having professional handle issues of installation when it comes to auto sound systems. It isnt that my dad, whom I love dearly for the effort, was incompetent when it comes to technical matters, in fact, he is highly skilled in these sorts of things ordinarily, it is simply that car stereos are so terrible complicated that it takes more than merely reading a set of instructions in order to get the maximum effect from your installation endeavors.



I have heard horror stories, particularly related to in dash installations that have resulted in some people having to make serious and costly repairs to their cars in order to fix the damage inflicted by installations by those who either lacked the proper tools, proper training, or a little bit of both for installing auto sound systems. While some drivers dont spend all that much time in their vehicles on any given day there are many commuters who put many miles on their cars, trucks, or SUVs during the course of a week. For these drivers it is often very important that they have the best possible sound systems for their vehicles. They will rely on their stereos to find out about weather conditions, traffic tie-ups, news, and possibly even entertainment during their long drives. If sound and music plays an important role in your life, dont you deserve the best auto sound system possible?


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Saturday, August 16, 2014

Track Your Distance Through a Bicycle Odometer

Just like cars that measures the distance it can travel, you can also do it with your bicycles. We usually keep track of our mileage to see how far our strength can go but would it be of great use if we track it because we are maintaining a workout everyday considering the calories we are burning.

Hacks and Mods: Track Your Distance Through a Bicycle Odometer

If you want to make your own odometer, you will need a micro controller that generates pulse and a MOSFET that converts those voltage pulses. Just remember to check your batteries all the time.
The best way of burning calories is to move those muscles everyday! Set your bikes and your odometer! Burn fats!
Streamdiagram
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Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Smart Tracker track anything from your child to shoes

The EPE Minder consists of two type- approved transmitter units and a receiver. If either transmitter becomes separated from the receiver, a buzzer in the latter part will sound.
The receiver is fitted with a switch to allow the use of only one transmitter if required.

MIND HOW YOU GO

This system was originally designed as a two-channel child alarm (to protect either a single child or two children at the same time) but many other applications spring to mind. For example, one transmitter could be placed inside a briefcase and another in a coat pocket. If the user forgot to pick up either of these items and walked away, the buzzer would sound in the receiver. The receiver must be carried on the per- son in a way that would make it practically impossible to lose it. This could be done using a belt clip, for example. Note that it will not be possible to use this system if either the transmitter or receiver were placed inside metal containers or if there were substantial metallic “screening” objects between them.

OPERATING RANGE
The operating range may be adjusted according to the intended purpose. However, it does depend on conditions. Adjustment is carried out by means of “aerial link wires” on the circuit panels. With all these in place, the range of the prototype exceeds 12 metres in open air. It will also work throughout several rooms indoors if required. If the battery voltage in either transmit- ter or receiver falls below a certain value, or if a transmitter is switched off, a buzzer will sound. The specified batteries in the transmitters should provide several hun- dred hours of operation. Those in the receiver should provide around 100 hours.

PERSONAL CODE
The EPE Minder uses a system of digitally encoded low-power radio signals,
which pass from the transmitters to the receiver. The code is different for each transmitter so that the receiver is able to distinguish one from the other. Type-approved, pre-aligned transmitter and receiver modules that operate at 433MHz. are used. No traditional “radio” skills are needed and no licence is needed for their use in the UK.

TRANSMITTER CIRCUIT
The circuit diagram for a single trans- mitter unit is shown in Fig.1. Current is
supplied to the circuit from a 3V “coin” cell, B1, via on-off switch S2 and diode D1. The diode provides reverse-polarity protection. It is best to use the specified Schottky device which introduces a smaller forward voltage drop, and therefore less loss, than a conventional silicon diode (0·2V rather than 0·7V approximately). Capacitor C2 provides a small reserve of energy and pre- vents the supply voltage from fluctuating. This stabilises operation. A low power 7555 timer, IC1, is set up in a standard astable (pulse generator) con- figuration. While switched on, this produces a continuous train of on-off pulses at its output, pin 3.The choice of resistors R1, R2 and capacitor C1 provide one pulse per second for one of the transmitters (Unit A) and one pulse every 1·2 seconds for the other one (Unit B). In fact, the timings are slightly longer but it helps to consider them as above. Also, the on times are much longer than the off ones in each case. The purpose of this will be explained presently.




RECEIVER CIRCUIT

Receiver module, IC1, requires a supply of between 4·5V and 5·5V. The 6V nomi-
nal battery pack, B1, is brought within range by the forward drop of diode D5
(0·7V approx.) This diode also provides reverse-polarity protection. Capacitor C4 charges up and provides a small reserve of energy. This will be useful when the battery is nearing the end of its operating life. When the supply voltage falls below some 4V, the receiver stops working and the buzzer will sound. Below around 3V, the buzzer itself will not operate so it is important to check operation each time the units are used. Receiver IC1 should be of the a.m. (amplitude modulation) type as specified in the components list. As such, it will respond to the on-off pulses provided by the transmitter. The inexpensive super regenerative (rather than superhet) variety will be perfectly adequate. The low-power variants of these receivers have not been tested. Although for battery operation they would appear to be ideal, the standard type is more readily available.

The receiver may be considered as hav- ing separate r.f. (radio frequency) and a.f. (audio frequency) sections. These have individual supply inputs (pins 1, 10, 12 and 15 with some being duplicated). These are all connected together and decoupled using capacitor C1.

TESTING

Having completed the Receiver board, we can now commence testing all three
boards. It helps to minimise the Receiver “hold-off” time by adjusting preset VR1 fully anti-clockwise (as viewed from the left-hand side of the p.c.b.) and preset VR2 fully clockwise (as viewed from the right- hand side of the p.c.b.). Check that the Test link has been left unconnected to prevent IC4b signal from passing to transistor TR1’s base. Switch on Single Channel switch S3 so that Channel A is enabled. With On-Off switch S4 off, insert the batteries. Switch on. After a short delay, the buzzer WD1 should sound. Now place Transmitter A approximately
three metres away from the Receiver, insert the battery and switch on. The buzzer should begin to bleep every second. The same procedure is now repeated for Transmitter B. To do this, switch S3 off to disable Channel A and firmly twist together the ends of the Test link wires. It is not advisable to solder this connection unless the i.c.s are removed first. The buzzer should bleep at a slightly slower rate than for Transmitter A. It is unlikely that the time periods of the two transmitters will be the same (due to overlapping component tolerances).
However, if they are, one of them will need to be changed. Choose slightly higher values for resistors R1 and R2 to slow it down and vice versa. Remove the i.c.s before making any modifications.

HOLD-OFF TIME
When both transmitters have been test- ed, switch S3 on to enable both channels. presets VR1 and VR2 should now be adjusted to approximately mid-track posi- tion. This should provide a sufficient “hold off” time plus a small margin. The buzzer should now remain off and only sound when one of the transmitters is switched off or moved out of range. Leave them operating for several minutes. If the occasional spurious bleep is heard, increase the settings of VR1/VR2 to pre- vent this happening.
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